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閱讀貢丸湯

走出學院,一群清大學生和年輕的實習團隊在新竹舊城北門街上成立「見域亭仔角」,並創辦在地刊物《貢丸湯》,帶你認識不一樣的新竹。
走出學院,一群清大學生和年輕的實習團隊在新竹舊城北門街上成立「見域亭仔角」,並創辦在地刊物《貢丸湯》,帶你認識不一樣的新竹。

《貢丸湯》不是湯!

以新竹地方特產命名,由清華大學十多位跨科系學生發行的在地刊物《貢丸湯》,透過實地走踏田野、找尋舊城裡精彩的人事物,致力找回新竹古城的百年價值。

Meatball Soup isn’t soup!

Taking its name from a famous culinary specialty of Hsinchu, Meatball Soup is a publication put out by a dozen-some students majoring in different subjects at National Tsing Hua University. Getting out and doing fieldwork, they are uncovering some of this century-old city’s hidden treasures.

閱讀貢丸湯
閱讀貢丸湯

說起新竹,率先出現在腦海的字眼會是什麼?是「新竹科學園區」、「城隍廟」、「米粉貢丸湯」,抑或一片空白?關於這樣的答案,一群清華大學的學生並不滿足。

2014年,莊重遠、吳君薇、黃喆亮、謝爾庭等十來位跨科系的學生夥伴決定成立「見域工作室」,並創辦在地刊物《貢丸湯》,帶領大家認識「你所不知道的新竹」。

When you hear the word Hsinchu, what first pops into your mind? The Hsinchu Science Park or the City God Temple? Meatball soup with rice noodles maybe? Or do you simply draw a blank? Responses of this kind don’t satisfy a group of students at National Tsing Hua University.

In 2014, some dozen students from various departments at Tsing Hua, including Zhuang Zhongyuan, Wu Junwei, Huang Zheliang, and Xie Erting, decided to found the Kendama Studio as well as Meatball Soup, which aims to make people acquainted with “the Hsinchu that’s unknown to you.”

閱讀貢丸湯
閱讀貢丸湯

無聊中找樂趣,意外發現精彩The joy in accidental discovery

每逢周末,新竹客運站前擠滿了大批乘客準備回到台北。「新竹好無聊!」彷彿成了許多外來學子、上班族最常掛在嘴上的一句話。但在《貢丸湯》主編莊重遠和工作室夥伴看來,「有著許多故事的新竹,始終沒有被重視」。

Every weekend, large groups of travelers gather in front of the bus station, waiting to return to Taipei. “Hsinchu is boring!” is a frequent lament of many students and workers who are transplants. But as far as the magazine’s editor-in-chief Zhuang Zhongyuan and his fellow staffers are concerned, “Hsinchu holds many interesting stories that have never been spotlighted.”

莊重遠表示,與台北相較,新竹的生活確沒有都市精彩。在台北想聽一場Live house演唱會,輕而易舉;進行一場文資研討會,也隨時找得到專家、資料。但一旦換到新竹,就不見得有同樣的條件。不過也因為資源不若台北,這群外地來的學生,反而在一切得靠自己來的過程裡,挖掘出許多連新竹在地人也不知道的精彩故事。

Zhuang admits that Hsinchu certainly lacks the urbanity of Taipei. If you want to listen to live music in Tai­pei, it’s easy. And if you want to hold a seminar or lecture on a cultural topic, you can quickly find experts and resources. Attempting the same in Hsinchu tends to be much more challenging. Yet precisely because Hsinchu lacks Taipei’s resources, these transplanted students have had to rely on their own initiative to uncover fascinating information about Hsinchu events and people, much of it unknown even to most locals.

例如市立動物園,民眾只知道台北市立木柵動物園、高雄壽山動物園兩大園區,鮮少人知道,原來新竹市區就藏著一座全台灣於現址營運最悠久的動物園。不若台北、高雄兩大市立動物園幾經搬遷,1936年政府於新竹公園內架設動物欄柵後,一直保留至今。

For instance, when it comes to municipal zoos, most people only know the Taipei Zoo in Muzha and Kaohsiung’s Shoushan Zoo. Few people know that Hsinchu has Taiwan’s oldest zoo that is still operating at its original site. Unlike the Taipei and Kaohsiung zoos, which have moved several times, Hsinchu’s zoo has been in Hsinchu Park since it opened in 1936 during the Japanese era.

除了深具歷史意義的文史遺跡,角落裡也有許多小人物正為了夢想努力著。採訪過程裡,編輯成員就曾遇過一位懷抱將新竹打造為國際舞蹈之都夢想的熱情街舞者林俊含。平日開設舞蹈教室外,他還不時從台北邀來舞者表演、積極參與國際舞蹈賽事;被外界稱為文化沙漠的新竹,也有年輕的舞蹈團隊「舞次方舞蹈工坊」,利用簡陋的空間,打造的實驗劇場「鐵屋頂」。

Apart from overlooked historic sites, there are also many people striving toward their dreams in various corners of the city. In the process of gathering local news, one editorial staffer came across the ardent street dancer Lin Junhan, who hopes to make Hsinchu an international city of dance. On most days he teaches dance at his studio, but he also invites dancers from Taipei to come down and give performances, and he actively participates in international dance competitions. Although sometimes regarded as a performing arts desert, Hsinchu is also the home base for Dance Exponent Five, a company of young dancers, which has built a rough-hewn performance space they call “The Iron Roof Theatre.”

閱讀貢丸湯
閱讀貢丸湯

2015年3月,《貢丸湯》創刊號發行後,原定「今與昔」主題的第二期雜誌,因為採訪內容過於豐富,單期88頁容納不下,最後拆為兩期刊載。其中包括東門市場、忠貞眷村寡婦樓等故事均刊載在第二期,完整呈現了新竹「老城」風情,而第三期則以「『新』新竹」出發,從生活、文化等角度,找尋嶄新的新竹。

「新竹有這麼多的故事,卻沒有人知道。」莊重遠說。為新竹發出的不平,連帶引發他進一步萌生:「什麼樣的城市生活才是現代人在乎?」的疑惑,而類似的困惑之前已出現過。

大學考上清華大學人社系後,莊重遠同時選修了清華學院學程。在強調「社會參與」的課程訓練下,他有機會接觸國光石化、新竹尖石水庫等相關議題;而後,他更成為充滿人文關懷刊物《基進筆記》一員。懵懂的他隨著每一次的田野調查、講座研討,親自尋訪了新竹。那時,他開始疑惑,「為何在地的故事沒有人認識?」

「話雖如此,一開始也沒有如此清晰的目標。」莊重遠說,不思考這些問題時,自己就像普通的大學生,平日上課、偶而打打電動,但社會關懷的想法卻始終留在心裡。

“Hsinchu has so many untold stories,” says Zhuang. That realization triggered him to go a step further and consider the question: “What sort of urban life do modern people care about?” It wasn’t the first time he had reflected on the matter.

After enrolling in the university’s Interdisciplinary Program of Humanities and Social Sciences, Zhuang Zhongyuan took some elective courses in the university’s leadership program. With a curriculum that stressed social participation, he threw himself into activism over the KuoKuang Petrochemical and Jianshi Dam projects. Later he became a contributor to the social activist journal Radical. Every time he conducted fieldwork or participated in discussions at research seminars, he gained a deeper understanding of Hsinchu. He began to wonder: Why don’t even locals know much about Hsinchu?

閱讀貢丸湯
閱讀貢丸湯

老屋改造,新空間新串連Old home, new connections

2014年成立見域工作室、2015年發行《貢丸湯》,都是團隊夥伴以行動找尋解答的嘗試。今年年初雜誌發行前,莊重遠和幾位夥伴在城隍廟附近北門街租下一處老屋,並取名為「見域亭仔角」。

In 2014 he founded the Kendama Studio and in 2015 he began publishing Meatball Soup. Both were group efforts aimed at finding answers to that question. At the beginning of this year, before the magazine had launched, Zhuang and his partners rented an old house on Beimen Street near the City God Temple. They called the house the Kendama Arcade.

一開始抱著「舊城復興」計畫的夥伴,就鎖定以老屋為目標,「但走了一圈,發現並不好找,最後才找到這處前身為五金行、名為金源成的老屋。」莊重遠表示,除了希望透過老屋改造,達成舊城恢復的目標,也希望這處空間能夠成為人與人串連的節點。新竹雖然早有不少關注在地的NGO、民間團體,但都得遇上特定議題發生時,才會聚集在一起。莊重遠表示,打造見域亭仔角是希望透過日常的運轉,細水長流地醞釀改變的能量。

Committed to “revival of the old city,” his partners had been determined to rent an old house. “At first they came up empty, but eventually discovered one. It had been a hardware store named Jinyuancheng.” Apart from pursuing urban revival through renovation, they also hoped to create a space that would foster face-to-face interaction within the community.

亭仔角開張後,最先上門的是隔壁好奇的鄰居、而後陸續出現的是城隍廟附近觀光的外地遊客,「許多原本不認識的人,坐下來閒談後,才發現彼此互有淵源。」莊重遠說。

After Kendama opened, the first people to walk in were curious neighbors. They were followed by tourists exploring the area around the City God Temple. “A lot of people who didn’t know each other would sit down and discover they had connections or mutual acquaintances of some sort,” says Zhuang.

除了以人出發,坐落在新竹舊城區的見域,發揮類似日本「案內所」(註:「案內」為日文,意為諮詢、嚮導)的功能,為民眾解決各式疑難雜症,也為外地觀光客提供不一樣的新竹觀光遊旅路線。

到見域亭仔角一趟,可以找到最在地的旅遊資訊。幸運的話,還可能恰巧碰上以「新竹」為主題的各式講座。

At Kendama you can find travel information, and you may happen upon lectures on Hsinchu-related topics.

去年開始,見域團隊就舉辦了「食在竹好」活動,邀請地方青年團隊分享以農特產製作茶飲、釀造啤酒的創業故事;在「Refresh:回新竹做設計」系列講座裡,則有許多赴外地求學、工作的新竹人分享回鄉投入建築設計的歷程;和新竹生活美學館合作的「遊戲生活!擲骰子向前進」,則讓新竹變成了一處尋寶遊戲的大型遊樂園……。

Last year Kendama invited local youth groups to come in and help make tea drinks and brew beer from locally grown agricultural products. As part of a lecture series on Hsinchu design, Kendama invited various locally born architects who had moved away for their educations or work to discuss their thoughts about returning to Hsinchu to pursue architectural design.

起初以為冷門的題材,只有特定觀眾感興趣,不料幾次活動舉辦下來,都吸引了大批人潮。此前,見域邀請前新竹市長蔡仁堅以「北門大街的繁榮與黯淡」為題演講,更吸引了大批聽眾。「人都從客廳滿到屋子外的走廊了,」莊重遠說。

At first Kendama staff thought the lecture series would attract only a specialized audience, but much to their surprise the lectures were all well attended. Previously, Kendama had invited former Hsinchu mayor James Tsai to lecture on the topic: “The Death and Life of the Great Street of Beimen,” which also attracted a large audience. “The overflow crowd spilled into the corridor,” says Zhuang.

《貢丸湯》,新竹人生活裡的不可或缺Essential tips for Hsinchu living

若將「見域亭仔角」視為行動基地,《貢丸湯》的發行則是見域團隊透過雜誌向外發聲的另一種管道。莊重遠透露,俏皮可愛、又帶著濃濃新竹味的刊名,其實是經過一番討論才得來的。

「走城」、「廟邊」或緊扣新竹風城意象,以「風」字起名的名稱,都是命名的選項之一。莊重遠表示「走城」,在城區有著行走探索的意味;「廟邊」的構想,則是基於新竹舊城區城門旁各有一座廟宇,東有東寧宮、西有天后宮、南有竹蓮寺,北有長和宮,中間則是知名的城隍廟,大大小小的廟宇成了人們行走新竹的空間軸線。

If Kendama is a base for activism, then Meatball Soup is another channel for Kendama to communicate with the outside world. Zhuang reveals that the name—cute, smart and redolent of Hsinchu—came out of extended discussions.

They considered names such as “city walker,” “beside the temple” and others that hewed closely to Hsinchu’s image as “the windy city.” Zhuang explains that “city walker” suggests the idea of exploring the city. Meanwhile, “beside the temple” was an allusion to the temples beside the four gates to the old city: Dongning Temple in the east, Tianhou Temple in the west, Zhulian Temple in the south, and Changhe Temple in the north. Right in the middle there’s the famous City God Temple. The temples large and small create a spatial grid that the people of Hsinchu use to navigate their city.

最後團隊決定以新竹特產「貢丸湯」為刊名,看中的便是這道小吃在新竹人日常生活裡不可或缺的地位。莊重遠解釋,簡單的貢丸湯確實不是人們逢年過節、辦桌宴客時會端上的「大菜」,卻是人們哪天疲累、肚子餓了想來上一碗湯時會馬上想到的選項。「貢丸湯的日常性,鑲嵌在人們生活中」的意象,與雜誌定位不謀而合,最終雀屏中選。

But eventually the team settled on “meatball soup” (gongwan tang), that famous Hsinchu delicacy. It plays an irreplaceable role in the daily lives of the city’s people. Zhuang explains that meatball soup isn’t a fancy dish that comes out at festivals and banquets, but rather comfort food that people seek on the spur of the moment when they’re tired and hungry. “Meatball soup is part and parcel of every­day life,” and since that also reflects their aspirations for the magazine, it was their ultimate choice.

「上路一年來,要說改變了什麼,或許還太早。」但《貢丸湯》發行後意外激起迴響,更發現了「高手在民間」。莊重遠表示,每每寫到歷史相關的主題,編輯團隊就會收到讀者的意見回饋。若說《貢丸湯》的出版是想說出「見域版本」的新竹史,也是希望向新竹人發問,「你們呢?你們認識的新竹是什麼?」

「當每個在地人說出自己版本的新竹,在地的故事就能一層一層的被挖掘出來。」莊重遠說。

來新竹一趟,喝一碗貢丸湯之外,歡迎翻翻《貢丸湯》,品嚐最道地的新竹好滋味。

On most days the editors, all still students, can only put spare moments into planning content. Hsinchu residents generally don’t know much about their own city’s past or what surrounds them, but the publication of Meatball Soup has brought unexpected feedback, revealing that there are still some “experts among the people.”

Zhuang explains that whenever they tackle a story connected to history, they get letters voicing differing opinions. The editors happily read the feedback. After all, Meatball Soup aims to foster a new “Kendama history of Hsinchu.” It aspires to ask city residents: “What about you? What is the Hsinchu that you know?”

“As local residents, each and every one, get a chance to describe their own Hsinchu stories,” says Zhuang, “then the authentic local history of the city will be uncovered one layer at a time.”

閱讀貢丸湯
閱讀貢丸湯

看更多精彩內容詳見本期的臺灣光華雜誌

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